Authenticity in the West Village
It IS nice to be a West Village girl / HSN #6: WV Love Letter
At the time of writing, I am appreciating being a West Village girl. I am on the pier, lying in the grass, relying on 28% iPhone battery hotspot to connect to Substack. See photo above.
I relished in the fluffy, salacious Cut article about the Girlies in this neighborhood, over coffee at 7:30 AM one weekday morning. After that, I didn’t think about it. I’m not going to link it because there is not a single word more that needs to be said about that article. There is too much manufactured discourse around this article, which is a caustic, buzzy journal entry with little substance, engineered to go viral. It describes a subculture where one is defined by and proud of being basic, a normie. It reports on the shocking fact that people who live in a certain neighborhood enjoy doing similar things. I am looking forward to the next think piece about Bushwick girls who enjoy a beer shot combo at Birdy’s and a round of pool at Carmelo’s.
This hit piece against the Girlies fails to contextualize the West Village, a neighborhood rich with history and and marked culturally by Beat poets, the LGBTQ community, and artists like Walker Evans (23 Bethune), Edward Hopper (3 Washington Square North), Milton Avery (294 W 11th), and Roy Lichtenstein (745 Washington) . It reads like a eulogy, an altogether write-off in the face of Set Active workout outfits, Rhythm Zero lattes, and Dante negronis. The Girlies are nothing to be afraid of. There is still very much authenticity and life in this neighborhood if you know where to look, or if you talk to the old stalwarts of this neighborhood that have lived here forever.
I wanted to write my own WV love letter:
Authentic West Village Guide
Snack Taverna; 63 Bedford St.
Family-run, under the radar cozy Greek restaurant. It is the epitome of a neighborhood gem. Perfect for any situation - breakfast, lunch, or dinner, seven days a week.
St. Luke in the Fields Garden; 485 Hudson St.
Secret, peaceful garden plentiful in flora, with benches for sitting and talking to friends in low, measured tones.
Left Bank Books; 41 Perry St.
Used, vintage, and rare bookseller and buyer in an intimate little space. Erik + Jess’s sourcing is impeccable; take a glance through their Instagram below for some selects. This is a bookstore that feels more like a tiny museum. I recently picked up a book of Anais Nin short stories for $10 and enjoyed it on a beach. The store name is a reference to Paris’s bohemian Left Bank, likening its culture to the artistic and cultural heritage of NYC’s West Village.
C.O. Bigelow; 414 6th Ave.
Historic pharmacy and beauty destination established in 1838, and most recently gained notoriety when the internet found out Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy bought her famous headbands here. In any case, Bigelow has the best selection of skincare, haircare, and body care, carrying both indie and mainstay brands in a decidedly non-overwhelming environment (looking at every Sephora in the city….). Bigelow is the perfect blend of new and old, peddling old-timey antacids and potions alongside niche cool brands: a perfect haul could include a seashell hair clip, a medicinal-looking mustard rub, Liis Rose Struck perfume, Dedcool detergent…
Lifethyme; 410 6th Ave.
Lifethyme is my favorite grocery and has that awesome health-food store smell (IYKYK). A perfect place to get natural and organic groceries, but the real selling point is their hot bar and prepared foods selection. Everything is delicious and extremely clean; I love their miso and lentil soups, homemade sprouted hummus and pesto, chicken aioli wrap, and various quinoa / chickpea salads. The most magical thing at Lifethyme is their vegan raw dessert fridge - it contains wonders such as a raw berry cheesecake, chocolate lava cake, raw “Oreos”, and pound cakes galore.
Zimmi’s; 72 Bedford St.
Zimmi’s is a neighborhood newcomer that identified a blank space in the NYC restaurant market: there is a dearth of HOMESTYLE FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE COOKING. Have a seat on the ostrich leather banquette and you will be served artichoke soup with foie gras, lamb and artichoke stew, and tagliatelle with chicken ragout and sage atop a gingham tablecloth.
The Commerce Inn; 50 Commerce St.
I have had arguments about whether the atmosphere and menu at Rita Sodi and Jody Williams’ (I Sodi, Via Carota, Buvette, and Bar Pisellino) least-known baby, The Commerce Inn, is BRITISH, SHAKER, or QUAKER. According to the website it is “early American” which can kind of be interpreted as all of the above.
Nonetheless, Sodi and Williams are adept at creating worlds within restaurants. Attention to detail, be it millwork, waiter uniforms, or bathroom sinks is of the utmost importance here, as is the ingredient quality that shines through everything you eat or drink here. I like breakfast or lunch here and go for the Farmer’s Breakfast or turkey club if it’s on the menu; they also have the best and most ~elevated~ bloody mary in the city.
Casa Magazines; 22 8th Ave.
Beloved corner store and the magazine destination (2500+ titles) of New York. Casa has been owned and operated by Mohammed Ahmed since it first opened on 12th and 8th Avenue in 1994; earlier this year he retired and sold Casa to Iconic Magazines, another local-run magazine bodega in Nolita. See below for the incredible Daniel Arnold photo story on the men who run Casa.
The Otheroom; 143 Perry St.
“The heart and soul of the West Village”; a hideaway-feeling, intimate and dark bar with a wine and beer focus. It is apt to think of it as the living room of the neighborhood, great for pre or post-dinner drinks.
Bonsignour Cafe; 35 Jane St.
Bonsignour is a West Village resident’s mainstay for fresh, simple sandwiches, soups, and deli counter classics. The owners are from France and Spain, so know they don’t compromise on ingredient quality. My favorite sandwich in all of NYC hails from Bonsignour: Turkey and Avocado with Herb Mayo on Baguette. Their chicken tenders are delicious as well- the breading contains sesame seeds.
IFC Center; 323 6th Ave.
Independent theater est. 2005 and host of DOC NYC, America’s largest documentary festival. Supposedly, the popcorn is organic. I recently saw Durga Chew-Bose’s Bonjour Tristesse remake starring Chloe Sevigny at IFC (recommend highly but read the book first), and want to see Eileen Gray and the House by the Sea, about the criminally unknown architect-designer Eileen Gray and Le Corbusier’s apparent villain arc.
Cafe Cluny; 284 W. 12th St.
French-American bistro from Lynn Wagenknecht, owner and operator of perfect restaurants The Odeon and Cafe Luxembourg. Cafe Cluny is also perfect, in a more relaxed way. I like it for an early Sunday dinner or Saturday lunch; it is warm and unfussy while also feeling like a little special occasion. My order: yellowfin tuna burger and a glass of the chablis.
Tartine; 253 W. 11th St.
Tartine is mentioned in basically every single one of my guides. So all you need to know: it is on the quaintest, quietest corner in NY, and it is BYOB.
Sea Grape Wine Shop; 512 Hudson St.
Gem of a wine store with incredibly quirky staff. Go in and see for yourself - the signs around the store promoting different wines are clever and endlessly amusing.
LB (Little Branch); 20 7th Ave S.
Please don’t let the copy “Cozy and Vibey Atmosphere” on their website steer you away… LB is IT. It is a subterranean speakeasy behind an unmarked metal door, with live music and bartender’s-choice cocktails (describe what you want to the server and the bartender will craft a fitting drink).
Smalls Jazz Club; 183 W 10th St.
Best tiny, no-frills jazz club in NYC and such a finely oiled machine this place is, in the basement of a landmark building. Smalls features larger ensembles so it is an apt choice if you don’t wish to engage in conversation with whoever you’re with :) I most recently saw the Noah Haidu Quartet. Be sure to get tickets ahead of time, and show up ~15 mins before your scheduled show to get good seats.
Dare I say… THE WEST VILLAGE IS COOL!
Patti Smith - what a get for the neighborhood.
Excellent recs! I have never heard of a lot of these; great guide on my occasional masquerades as a west village boy
Love this. Agreed, I actually didn’t even find The Cut article entertaining (the only thing I expected from it). Bookmarking this for my next trip x